Removed the temporary fastenings which held sole onto floors (with doublers) and king plank (supported by gusset and doubler). Fish sanded the sole surface and coved sole edge which will prevent any flexing and movement as we finish the remaining forward cockpit sole area. I dry fitted some spare doublers to the longitudinal floor. This floor divides the cockpit sole with the galley sole it runs at a 15 degree angle from the centre line of the gas tank bay floor to starboard on the first bulkhead. The height of the galley's sole is flush to the internal bulkhead area.
Jobs to finish cockpit sole include:
1. Glue in the doubler and gussets to remaining floors.
2. Refit king planks.
3. Glue and cove longitudinal floor (with doublers) dividing cockpit and galley.
4. Fit remaining cockpit sole.
These are my goals, but our classes priority is to laminate the cabin top mold. Because it will be difficult to laminate the entire cabin top at the same time, due to technical and resin cure time constraints. It will be laminated in 4 segments.
Tasks involved with the cabin top mold:
6 Layers of wax and 2 coats of PVA Foam (green) were applied recently.
EC200 cloth and EDB415 glass dry fitted and weighed.
Dry fit 15 mm Airex Foam Core Around shape of mold and around window plugs.
Bake foam so that it conforms to the curved areas
Using 60 Resin / 40 Glass Ratio
Glass wighed in at 8.2 KG X 1.5 = 12.3 kg Resing + 700 grams of peel ply
Tools for Laminating:
Rollers, paint brush 25mm, compression rollers, acetone, squigees, packaging tape, masking tape, vacuum tape.
First segment is the cabin top roof area.
1. Vacuum tape
2. Wet out and locate inner peel ply
3. Boat cloth = butted together
4. Double bias overlapped 50 mm
5. Peel ply roll down with compression rollers
Laminate foam:
Remove peel ply
Wet out foam with resin
Paint foam with slurry
Place on mold
Lay out peel ply and smooth on with a brush
Lay perferated plastic
Lay green mesh
Lay vaccuum bag
Remove vaccuum tape making sure there is no resin over flow
Make pleats or darts regularly to make maximum amount of bag on the job
Check for any air leaks use ear to find them and plug gap with vacuum tape
Fill foam:
Remove bag carefully so it can be reused.
Remove green mesh, perforated plastic, and vacuum tape.
Remove peel ply carefully to avoid pre-release
Fill foam with bog
Laminate second layers of DB and EC:
Sand inset area where double bias will join and overlap
Cove window frames
Vacuum and or blow away excess particles
Coat of resin on foam
Coat of resin with coloidal silica on foam
Lay Double Bias with overlap - Pour resin over and work it with squigee
Lay boat cloth - Pour resin over and work it with squigee
Peel ply - work it
Perforated cloth
Bleeder cloth
Vacuum bag
Check for leaks and therefore loss of suction
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Monday, November 1, 2010
Tuesday 26 October to Wednesday 27 October
Glued the sole to the floors from transom to gas tank bay. We used a very thick Epoxy mixed with glue powder to glue around the edges using a plastic bag dispenser. And smeared the glue with knives and a paint brush on all of the partners and floors. The floor partners and engine box partners provided extra faying surface as well as holding the plywood down with temporary fasteners.
It was good to take two days to fasten the sole. As we used clamps to hold the king plank and port side sole together. The next day I was able to fasten the starboard side with screws through to the king plank. This would have not been essential had we previously fastened in the king plank.
Below shows the fastening techniques. Galvanised nails with pads along the floors. Then clanped along the king plank and plywood lap.
Tuesday:
Below shows fastening with nails, screws, and weights.
Wednesday:
It was good to take two days to fasten the sole. As we used clamps to hold the king plank and port side sole together. The next day I was able to fasten the starboard side with screws through to the king plank. This would have not been essential had we previously fastened in the king plank.
Below shows the fastening techniques. Galvanised nails with pads along the floors. Then clanped along the king plank and plywood lap.
Tuesday:
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| From 2010-10 |
Below shows fastening with nails, screws, and weights.
Wednesday:
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| From 2010-10 |
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Wednesday 20 October (20-10-2010)
First part of the day was our theory class. We were supposed to be working on calculations. Instead we worked on our blogs, researched methods of using epoxy, and had the BITO Trade liason advocate come and speak to us about the job market and our futures in it. He seemed very enthusiastic about the BITO Apprenticeship program. I think blogging is a great medium. And I enjoy reviewing my writing and re-editing it. It is the perfect medium to share with my family, colleagues, tutors, and future employees.
This afternoon with Chris's suggestion to save the transom off cut, it is the right shape to be the reinforcement engine pad.
Next week our priorities are:
1. Glue in and cove pipes.
2. Seal topside of sole, and glue and cove into place.
3. Cut partners for engine box, cut front face of engine box, cut pieces to fit around transom engine pad.
4. Build engine pad on outboard with cedar and ply. (find Honda 90 dimensions).
This afternoon with Chris's suggestion to save the transom off cut, it is the right shape to be the reinforcement engine pad.
Next week our priorities are:
1. Glue in and cove pipes.
2. Seal topside of sole, and glue and cove into place.
3. Cut partners for engine box, cut front face of engine box, cut pieces to fit around transom engine pad.
4. Build engine pad on outboard with cedar and ply. (find Honda 90 dimensions).
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Tuesday 19 October
Today was our most productive yet. By 9am Fish and I had sealed the underside of the sole using 4 parts epoxy resin and 1 part epoxy hardener. Spreading with a roller and rolling tray. And by 11.45 am, we had sealed the bottom inside surface of the hull, floors and floor partners. The inside surface finish was not as clean. Because Fish poured on the epoxy from an ice cream container and rolled it on, rather than gaining an even distribution with the rolling tray. Below is a photo of the result.
The longitudinal girders were slightly warped, so I attached a baton athwartships and fastened a lofting pin to both gunnels. From there I found the right place for each longitudinal girderi.e. where it was perpendicular to the sole. I fastened the girder in place with a pilot hole and lofting pin.
Below is a photo.
I also had laminated two sheets of 6mm ply for the forward face of the engine box. It was large enough to be the engine box shelf. The shelf begins 200 mm below the lowest point of the transom. It extends outwards and upwards at an 80 degree angle from the transom. I must remember to lower the measurement by 12mm as the shelf currently sits on top of the line.
 |
| From 2010-10 |
The longitudinal girders were slightly warped, so I attached a baton athwartships and fastened a lofting pin to both gunnels. From there I found the right place for each longitudinal girderi.e. where it was perpendicular to the sole. I fastened the girder in place with a pilot hole and lofting pin.
Below is a photo.
I also had laminated two sheets of 6mm ply for the forward face of the engine box. It was large enough to be the engine box shelf. The shelf begins 200 mm below the lowest point of the transom. It extends outwards and upwards at an 80 degree angle from the transom. I must remember to lower the measurement by 12mm as the shelf currently sits on top of the line.
 |
| From 2010-10 |
Monday 18 Octorber
Today the whole class was back into action. Fish would become indispensible in coving and taping the engine box girders. We found the materials and did a dry run, by cutting the right lengths. After morning tea we were ready to cove and Fish prepared the epoxy glue mix. But we had forgot to give the previous coving a light sand and I made the call to stop the coving, clean up and sand it properly. This may have been the right plan because after lunch we did a really good job.
I think this went well for my first time glassing and taping on a wet cove. It was important to have everything prefit. We had not prefit the peel ply though. This was not good for time and it made a mess. Wetting out the glass before laying it over the cove was a bit messy. But the peel ply and compression rollers helped make a clean finish.
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| From 2010-10 |
I think this went well for my first time glassing and taping on a wet cove. It was important to have everything prefit. We had not prefit the peel ply though. This was not good for time and it made a mess. Wetting out the glass before laying it over the cove was a bit messy. But the peel ply and compression rollers helped make a clean finish.
Wednesday 12 October
This morning I used a plane and spoke shave to smoothly finish the transom outline. Richard suggested that next I fix the longitudinal girders in place. I discovered the girders were initially placed slightly askew to the finalised transom outline. This was a problem because the transom shape was a far more pronounced shape than the engine box and it was paramount that the highpoint of the transom drop just after the edge of the longitudinal girders. SO I shift the portside longitudinal girder about 10 mm away from the centreline. I had already fitted the longitudinal girder slot into the sole I must remedy it with a slightly larger slot.
This process of negotiation finding the perfect spot for the girders to be whilst making them perpendicular to the floor. I used a hot glue gun to place them in position. But becuase I had spent most of the day getting this far, I coved the girders in their place with a very thick epoxy and glue powder mix.
Below is a picture of the coved girder placement.
That afternoon I used a copy cutter piece on the router to cut the topsides down to the gunnel. So I could sight what height and at what angle the girders should be cut to.
This process of negotiation finding the perfect spot for the girders to be whilst making them perpendicular to the floor. I used a hot glue gun to place them in position. But becuase I had spent most of the day getting this far, I coved the girders in their place with a very thick epoxy and glue powder mix.
Below is a picture of the coved girder placement.
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| From 2010-10 |
That afternoon I used a copy cutter piece on the router to cut the topsides down to the gunnel. So I could sight what height and at what angle the girders should be cut to.
Tuesday 12 October
This morning I made sure that the lines I had drawn for the final transom outline were correct. After several measurements from various datum lines (i.e. the centreline, the bottom of the hull, the top of the transom and various angles I had appropriated from the previous transom design).
The transom line I had drawn a month before was off-centre by 10 mm on the starboard side. I remedied this problem. And cut with the jigsaw right to the line so there would be the least amount of finishing work. Here is a before and after shot.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
You can see such a large difference, and being my first time how I was a little scared to do the cutting. I was fairly careful but now I have some confidence with the jigsaw.
In the afternoon I laminate two sheets of 6 mm ply together for the forward face of the engine box. The dimensions were 910 by 810. Below is a photo of my method for pressure onto the two laminates. My backyard boatbuilder technique resulted in minor airpockets at either end.
The transom line I had drawn a month before was off-centre by 10 mm on the starboard side. I remedied this problem. And cut with the jigsaw right to the line so there would be the least amount of finishing work. Here is a before and after shot.
BEFORE:
 |
| From 2010-10 |
AFTER:
 |
| From 2010-10 |
You can see such a large difference, and being my first time how I was a little scared to do the cutting. I was fairly careful but now I have some confidence with the jigsaw.
In the afternoon I laminate two sheets of 6 mm ply together for the forward face of the engine box. The dimensions were 910 by 810. Below is a photo of my method for pressure onto the two laminates. My backyard boatbuilder technique resulted in minor airpockets at either end.
 |
| From 2010-10 |
Monday, October 11, 2010
Monday 11 October
Today it was just Shaun, Jeff and I. We worked on cutting the slots in the sole for the longitudinal girder to fit through. The jigsaw blade had heated up and gone blunt. It was more difficult to cut with. We also circle sawed two holes on the inside of the engine box. The pipe goes from the fuel tank through several floors and through the sole into the engine box. By the end of the day, Jeff had also fitted the partners which run along the longitudinal girder and support the sole.
Tomorrow is a big day. Richard has instructed us to cut the shape of the transom so that we will find it easier to work around and so that we can get an idea of the scale of things. If we do cut it, I will be cut 10mm above the designated shape. A front face made of two 6mm strips of plywood to make a 12 mm front for the engine box. The join could be done with a butt joint supported by a doubler 50 mm molded and 30 mm sided. The bottom also requires a doubler of the same dimensions.
Below is shows what the process of finding the right slot to cut for the girders. It was easiest to measure from the centreline to the inside edge of the girder and transfer this to the sole.
Gabbys pattern double checked
The sole fits.
Tomorrow is a big day. Richard has instructed us to cut the shape of the transom so that we will find it easier to work around and so that we can get an idea of the scale of things. If we do cut it, I will be cut 10mm above the designated shape. A front face made of two 6mm strips of plywood to make a 12 mm front for the engine box. The join could be done with a butt joint supported by a doubler 50 mm molded and 30 mm sided. The bottom also requires a doubler of the same dimensions.
Below is shows what the process of finding the right slot to cut for the girders. It was easiest to measure from the centreline to the inside edge of the girder and transfer this to the sole.
 |
| From 2010-10-11 fone pix |
 |
| From 2010-10-11 fone pix |
Gabbys pattern double checked
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| From 2010-10-11 fone pix |
The sole fits.
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| From 2010-10-11 fone pix |
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Wednesday 22 September
After theory and lunch I set about taking the tape off the repaired longitudinal bulkhead. The join had suffered from hydraulic shift and a gap had appeared whilst drying. I guess this happened because we didn't force the top part down and fasten it in place before clamping down with the timber plank.
I matched the forward edges of THE bulkheads to each other fastening them with lofting pins ( longthin nails) and planed the surface to a relatively even face. I used a no. 5 plane, a block plane, and 60 grit sandpaper to achieve this. With the bulkheads still fastened together I traced the shape of the holes for piping to enter the bulkhead with the pattern made yesterday. The 25mm hole saw cut the rounded corners, and the jigsaw cut the straight lines. (Rounded corners are more structurally sound than sharp edges.) The bulkheads were then fitted into place and the partners added.
Now, begins a two week break. And afterward a week of work experiences. I hope to make some calls to firms in Whangarei, as I intend to head up those ways once I am free of obligations. I will also be back dating this blog with information from the previous few weeks work, and researching various topics surrounding the boat building field.
I matched the forward edges of THE bulkheads to each other fastening them with lofting pins ( longthin nails) and planed the surface to a relatively even face. I used a no. 5 plane, a block plane, and 60 grit sandpaper to achieve this. With the bulkheads still fastened together I traced the shape of the holes for piping to enter the bulkhead with the pattern made yesterday. The 25mm hole saw cut the rounded corners, and the jigsaw cut the straight lines. (Rounded corners are more structurally sound than sharp edges.) The bulkheads were then fitted into place and the partners added.
 |
| From Boat Construction Blog |
Now, begins a two week break. And afterward a week of work experiences. I hope to make some calls to firms in Whangarei, as I intend to head up those ways once I am free of obligations. I will also be back dating this blog with information from the previous few weeks work, and researching various topics surrounding the boat building field.
Tuesday 21 September
Yesterdays miscommunication, lead to spending half the day mending the engine box longitudinal girder with a biscuit join. We spindle molded a 4 mm slot in each end to be joined. And sanded down the rough cutting damage the band saw had made. And shaped a 4mm ply insert or biscuit to slot between the two joins. Brushed resin onto the faying surfaces and glued them with a runny glue powder mix. Nailing the base to the table and clamping a taped flat plank of timber to the join. See below.
This afternoon, I looked at how the pipes would fit through the engine box side under the sole and then rise through the stem into the engine box space. Here is a pic which shows the work in progress.
Whilst another part of the group worked on the cabin top mold cutting foam for the dryfit and label of the Airex 15mm foam.
Today, was a relatively productive day, and I went home feeling pretty tired. I look forward to making the most of our practical session in the afternoon so we can have the soles, engine box and pipes all dry fitted to look neat and tidy.
 |
| From Boat Construction Blog |
This afternoon, I looked at how the pipes would fit through the engine box side under the sole and then rise through the stem into the engine box space. Here is a pic which shows the work in progress.
 |
| From Boat Construction Blog |
Whilst another part of the group worked on the cabin top mold cutting foam for the dryfit and label of the Airex 15mm foam.
 |
| From Boat Construction Blog |
Today, was a relatively productive day, and I went home feeling pretty tired. I look forward to making the most of our practical session in the afternoon so we can have the soles, engine box and pipes all dry fitted to look neat and tidy.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Monday 20 September
I came on time this morning. Having reflected on what I needed to do the night before I was all action. I knew the Engine Box Longitudinal Bulkhead and Partners/Doublers/Kleats dry fitted by the end of the day.
Engine Box Longitudinal Bulkhead - 12 mm Marine 1088 Ply
In the shape of a Big L, to brace from the most aft floor along the hull and then curve to rise up through the sole and sit tight against the transom to it's most aft end. The engine box will be used to add strength to the transom. And also create a barrier between the cockpit and the outboard which might also reduce the noise of the engine too.
The pattern made from 3mm custom wood needed to project upwards from the transom edge by 115mm and out at a right angle inboard to where the box was to drops. Unfortunately, my partner for the past half semester was not aware of this. And cut the second box side to the old pattern shape instead of following the pattern I had meticulously drawn and cut with pencil and jigsaw. I had asked him to find the shape of the transom for the starboard engine side box.
This picture shows the engine box side having been cut out, and the other side ready to be cut out.
The following photo shows the engine box sides fitting into place quite well. Unfortunately, one side is under cut and I am about to research alternative to repair this problem.
It took far too long to get to that point. Perhaps two weeks, but the plans for the engine box had changed several times, with only brief sketches and vague ideas (in my head) as to exactly what the final transom shape would be, which also dictated the size of the engine box.
Engine Box Longitudinal Bulkhead - 12 mm Marine 1088 Ply
In the shape of a Big L, to brace from the most aft floor along the hull and then curve to rise up through the sole and sit tight against the transom to it's most aft end. The engine box will be used to add strength to the transom. And also create a barrier between the cockpit and the outboard which might also reduce the noise of the engine too.
The pattern made from 3mm custom wood needed to project upwards from the transom edge by 115mm and out at a right angle inboard to where the box was to drops. Unfortunately, my partner for the past half semester was not aware of this. And cut the second box side to the old pattern shape instead of following the pattern I had meticulously drawn and cut with pencil and jigsaw. I had asked him to find the shape of the transom for the starboard engine side box.
 |
| From Boat Construction Blog |
This picture shows the engine box side having been cut out, and the other side ready to be cut out.
The following photo shows the engine box sides fitting into place quite well. Unfortunately, one side is under cut and I am about to research alternative to repair this problem.
 |
| From Boat Construction Blog |
It took far too long to get to that point. Perhaps two weeks, but the plans for the engine box had changed several times, with only brief sketches and vague ideas (in my head) as to exactly what the final transom shape would be, which also dictated the size of the engine box.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Wednesday 15 September
Finished a new pattern for the Engine Box Longitudinal Bulkhead. Drew outline of final shape on the outboard of the transom. Recorded Jake, Edwin, Mark and Bracey use a neumatic spray paint contraption to coat the cabintop mold with duratec.
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| From Boat Construction Blog |
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| From Boat Construction Blog |
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| From Boat Construction Blog |
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| From Boat Construction Blog |
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