First part of the day was our theory class. We were supposed to be working on calculations. Instead we worked on our blogs, researched methods of using epoxy, and had the BITO Trade liason advocate come and speak to us about the job market and our futures in it. He seemed very enthusiastic about the BITO Apprenticeship program. I think blogging is a great medium. And I enjoy reviewing my writing and re-editing it. It is the perfect medium to share with my family, colleagues, tutors, and future employees.
This afternoon with Chris's suggestion to save the transom off cut, it is the right shape to be the reinforcement engine pad.
Next week our priorities are:
1. Glue in and cove pipes.
2. Seal topside of sole, and glue and cove into place.
3. Cut partners for engine box, cut front face of engine box, cut pieces to fit around transom engine pad.
4. Build engine pad on outboard with cedar and ply. (find Honda 90 dimensions).
This is a course supplement to the original Logbook style of learning.
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Tuesday 19 October
Today was our most productive yet. By 9am Fish and I had sealed the underside of the sole using 4 parts epoxy resin and 1 part epoxy hardener. Spreading with a roller and rolling tray. And by 11.45 am, we had sealed the bottom inside surface of the hull, floors and floor partners. The inside surface finish was not as clean. Because Fish poured on the epoxy from an ice cream container and rolled it on, rather than gaining an even distribution with the rolling tray. Below is a photo of the result.
The longitudinal girders were slightly warped, so I attached a baton athwartships and fastened a lofting pin to both gunnels. From there I found the right place for each longitudinal girderi.e. where it was perpendicular to the sole. I fastened the girder in place with a pilot hole and lofting pin.
Below is a photo.
I also had laminated two sheets of 6mm ply for the forward face of the engine box. It was large enough to be the engine box shelf. The shelf begins 200 mm below the lowest point of the transom. It extends outwards and upwards at an 80 degree angle from the transom. I must remember to lower the measurement by 12mm as the shelf currently sits on top of the line.
![]() |
From 2010-10 |
The longitudinal girders were slightly warped, so I attached a baton athwartships and fastened a lofting pin to both gunnels. From there I found the right place for each longitudinal girderi.e. where it was perpendicular to the sole. I fastened the girder in place with a pilot hole and lofting pin.
Below is a photo.
I also had laminated two sheets of 6mm ply for the forward face of the engine box. It was large enough to be the engine box shelf. The shelf begins 200 mm below the lowest point of the transom. It extends outwards and upwards at an 80 degree angle from the transom. I must remember to lower the measurement by 12mm as the shelf currently sits on top of the line.
![]() |
From 2010-10 |
Monday 18 Octorber
Today the whole class was back into action. Fish would become indispensible in coving and taping the engine box girders. We found the materials and did a dry run, by cutting the right lengths. After morning tea we were ready to cove and Fish prepared the epoxy glue mix. But we had forgot to give the previous coving a light sand and I made the call to stop the coving, clean up and sand it properly. This may have been the right plan because after lunch we did a really good job.
I think this went well for my first time glassing and taping on a wet cove. It was important to have everything prefit. We had not prefit the peel ply though. This was not good for time and it made a mess. Wetting out the glass before laying it over the cove was a bit messy. But the peel ply and compression rollers helped make a clean finish.
![]() |
From 2010-10 |
I think this went well for my first time glassing and taping on a wet cove. It was important to have everything prefit. We had not prefit the peel ply though. This was not good for time and it made a mess. Wetting out the glass before laying it over the cove was a bit messy. But the peel ply and compression rollers helped make a clean finish.
Wednesday 12 October
This morning I used a plane and spoke shave to smoothly finish the transom outline. Richard suggested that next I fix the longitudinal girders in place. I discovered the girders were initially placed slightly askew to the finalised transom outline. This was a problem because the transom shape was a far more pronounced shape than the engine box and it was paramount that the highpoint of the transom drop just after the edge of the longitudinal girders. SO I shift the portside longitudinal girder about 10 mm away from the centreline. I had already fitted the longitudinal girder slot into the sole I must remedy it with a slightly larger slot.
This process of negotiation finding the perfect spot for the girders to be whilst making them perpendicular to the floor. I used a hot glue gun to place them in position. But becuase I had spent most of the day getting this far, I coved the girders in their place with a very thick epoxy and glue powder mix.
Below is a picture of the coved girder placement.
That afternoon I used a copy cutter piece on the router to cut the topsides down to the gunnel. So I could sight what height and at what angle the girders should be cut to.
This process of negotiation finding the perfect spot for the girders to be whilst making them perpendicular to the floor. I used a hot glue gun to place them in position. But becuase I had spent most of the day getting this far, I coved the girders in their place with a very thick epoxy and glue powder mix.
Below is a picture of the coved girder placement.
![]() |
From 2010-10 |
That afternoon I used a copy cutter piece on the router to cut the topsides down to the gunnel. So I could sight what height and at what angle the girders should be cut to.
Tuesday 12 October
This morning I made sure that the lines I had drawn for the final transom outline were correct. After several measurements from various datum lines (i.e. the centreline, the bottom of the hull, the top of the transom and various angles I had appropriated from the previous transom design).
The transom line I had drawn a month before was off-centre by 10 mm on the starboard side. I remedied this problem. And cut with the jigsaw right to the line so there would be the least amount of finishing work. Here is a before and after shot.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
You can see such a large difference, and being my first time how I was a little scared to do the cutting. I was fairly careful but now I have some confidence with the jigsaw.
In the afternoon I laminate two sheets of 6 mm ply together for the forward face of the engine box. The dimensions were 910 by 810. Below is a photo of my method for pressure onto the two laminates. My backyard boatbuilder technique resulted in minor airpockets at either end.
The transom line I had drawn a month before was off-centre by 10 mm on the starboard side. I remedied this problem. And cut with the jigsaw right to the line so there would be the least amount of finishing work. Here is a before and after shot.
BEFORE:
![]() |
From 2010-10 |
AFTER:
![]() |
From 2010-10 |
You can see such a large difference, and being my first time how I was a little scared to do the cutting. I was fairly careful but now I have some confidence with the jigsaw.
In the afternoon I laminate two sheets of 6 mm ply together for the forward face of the engine box. The dimensions were 910 by 810. Below is a photo of my method for pressure onto the two laminates. My backyard boatbuilder technique resulted in minor airpockets at either end.
![]() |
From 2010-10 |
Monday, October 11, 2010
Monday 11 October
Today it was just Shaun, Jeff and I. We worked on cutting the slots in the sole for the longitudinal girder to fit through. The jigsaw blade had heated up and gone blunt. It was more difficult to cut with. We also circle sawed two holes on the inside of the engine box. The pipe goes from the fuel tank through several floors and through the sole into the engine box. By the end of the day, Jeff had also fitted the partners which run along the longitudinal girder and support the sole.
Tomorrow is a big day. Richard has instructed us to cut the shape of the transom so that we will find it easier to work around and so that we can get an idea of the scale of things. If we do cut it, I will be cut 10mm above the designated shape. A front face made of two 6mm strips of plywood to make a 12 mm front for the engine box. The join could be done with a butt joint supported by a doubler 50 mm molded and 30 mm sided. The bottom also requires a doubler of the same dimensions.
Below is shows what the process of finding the right slot to cut for the girders. It was easiest to measure from the centreline to the inside edge of the girder and transfer this to the sole.
Gabbys pattern double checked
The sole fits.
Tomorrow is a big day. Richard has instructed us to cut the shape of the transom so that we will find it easier to work around and so that we can get an idea of the scale of things. If we do cut it, I will be cut 10mm above the designated shape. A front face made of two 6mm strips of plywood to make a 12 mm front for the engine box. The join could be done with a butt joint supported by a doubler 50 mm molded and 30 mm sided. The bottom also requires a doubler of the same dimensions.
Below is shows what the process of finding the right slot to cut for the girders. It was easiest to measure from the centreline to the inside edge of the girder and transfer this to the sole.
![]() |
From 2010-10-11 fone pix |
![]() |
From 2010-10-11 fone pix |
Gabbys pattern double checked
![]() |
From 2010-10-11 fone pix |
The sole fits.
![]() |
From 2010-10-11 fone pix |
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